We set off from Siem Reap just as the sun was cracking the sky, piling into a trusty taxi instead of locking into a rigid coach schedule. Within an hour the rice paddies gave way to the lush greenery of Phnom Kulen National Park, and we could feel the humidity turn into anticipation.
Kulen Waterfall greeted us with a tumble of jade green water but, to be honest, it wasn’t quite the roaring spectacle we’d imagined or read about I mean, it was impressive but not as presented by people on posts suggested (we saw way better falls elsewhere) but… we couldn’t swim in those so this was a novelty!
Georgia wasted no time stripping off her shoes and plunging in as the cool pool washed over her. Dotty, on the other hand, hovered at the edge dodging the nibbling fish and fretting over slippery rocks and clanged on for life while I played guardian, guiding her across the slick stones and preventing any dramatic wipe outs. For the price we paid (way less than any coach tour), it was still fun, even if the falls themselves were a touch underwhelming (could be better managed, and Tidier/Cleaner for the entry cost).
After our dip at Kulen Falls, we set off on foot toward the Sleeping Buddha. The walk took us through a quiet village simple wooden homes, a few chickens, and friendly waves from locals as we passed. The path was dusty but easy enough, winding steadily uphill.
At the top, we reached Preah Ang Thom, Cambodia’s largest reclining Buddha. Carved directly into the sandstone, the statue stretches around 16 metres and dates back to the 16th century. We took off our shoes, stepped inside the shrine, and paused. Georgia was curious, Dotty was unsure, and I was surprised how much smaller it was in real life (pictures made it look huge)
It wasn’t crowded, just calm and still. A quick look around, a few quiet moments, then we made our way back to the car—hot, tired, but glad we came.
Back in our taxi, we wound eastward to Banteay Srei the “Citadel of Women.” Built in 967 CE from glowing pink sandstone, its miniature gopuras and intricate bas reliefs truly come alive under a late day sun. We wandered through halls carved with scenes of Shiva dancing with Parvati, tracing the centuries old artistry with reverent fingers. Every corner held another delicate detail that felt almost too fine to have survived a millennium.
Why a Taxi Beat a Coach
Going private gave us all the freedom to linger exactly as long as we liked whether that was coaxing Dotty across a rock or snapping yet another photo at Banteay Srei. It also saved us cash compared to the big bus group tour rates, letting us splurge instead on a nice lunch.
By the time we rolled back into Siem Reap, dusk had settled over the dusty streets. We showered off the day’s adventures it was the kind of day you ponder over. Sure, the waterfalls didn’t quite live up to the hype, but between Georgia’s laughter, Dotty’s cautious optimism, and my precarious rock guiding skills, we made memories that are anything but underwhelming.
Tips for Your Own Trip:
Swimmers & Sandals: For slippery rocks and sudden dips.
Sunscreen & Snacks: There’s little shade on the trails, and shops are shacks.
Private Transport: Flexibility by taxi = freedom to call the shots.
Would we do it again, no, but we don’t regret doing it at all.
