Paracas is the first stop on the Gringo Trail. If you’re backpacking through Peru, this place is basically a rite of passage. Everyone stops here, everyone does the same boat trip, and everyone leaves thinking, Well, that was… something.
It’s a town that feels like it peaked 20-40 years ago, the beeping makes absolutely no sense, and half the stuff in the markets looks like it was bought in bulk from an eBay warehouse clearance sale. But somehow, in between dodging dodgy dudes, avoiding the murky sand, and Ali launch herself off a sand dune, we had a weirdly entertaining few days.
We kicked off with the classic Ballestas Islands boat trip because that’s just what you do here. The ‘Poor Man’s Galápagos’ might not have the same ring to it as the real thing, but it delivered. We cruised past sunbathing sea lions, a very overdressed Humboldt penguins, and the massive Candelabra geoglyph carved into the cliffside. The whole thing was impressive, though the air was thick with a combination of sea spray, fish guts, and aggressive seabird smells.
Back on land, we wandered through Paracas’s famous markets several times, which, as it turns out, are famous for selling absolute rubbish. Think ‘luxury’ sunglasses that will snap before lunchtime, ‘handmade’ souvenirs that were probably made in a factory in China, and enough knockoff alpaca keychains to supply an entire season of tourists. And if you so much as glance at an item, expect an instant sales pitch that would put a used car dealer to shame.
While the rest of us stuck to the coast, and even found a upper class part which was shockingly nice, Ali went paragliding but before she did she had a bus ride into the desert, then got in a taxi with two burly men who drove the car up to the top of a towering sand dune, they strapped her in and then she was soaring out across the ocean and back. Her gliding through the sky would have been incredible to witness but we didn’t, and sadly for us Ali’s landing was graceful too so we are told so we cannot even laugh at that!
Ali and Georgia also tackled the inflatable water park, which was essentially a giant, sun-faded, wobbly plastic obstacle course floating in the bay. It was the kind of thing that looked fun but also like it could collapse at any second. No safety briefing, no lifeguards in sight just pure, unregulated chaos. Naturally, Georgia loved every second of it and even Ali had fun!
Dotty, on the other hand, was perfectly content digging in the sand, which let’s be honest is not the cleanest in the world. There were a few mystery objects buried in there that we chose to ignore. But she was happy, and that’s what counts.
I think there is a reason why everyone stops in Paracas, does the tours, and moves on. The town itself feels like a budget resort that hasn’t seen an upgrade since the early 80s. The buildings are sun-faded, half the places look permanently ‘under construction,’ and you get the feeling that if someone actually invested in it, it could be amazing. But instead, it just… exists.
And yet, the beeping.
Why?
No one knows.
The roads are practically empty, yet cars beep constantly at other cars, at pedestrians, at nothing at all.
In Lima, where the streets are gridlocked and people drive like they have a death wish, the honking makes sense. But here? You could walk down the middle of the road for five minutes without seeing a single vehicle, yet somewhere, someone is leaning on their horn like they’re in a high speed chase.
If you like weird, slightly rundown, totally unpredictable places? You’ll have a laugh but as I said earlier it’s a right of passage on the gringo trail, if your doing that expect this, just don’t expect the beeping to ever stop.
Paracas was our first stop on the Gringo Trail, but tomorrow we’re heading into the desert heading for an oasis. Dune buggies, sandboarding, and hopefully fewer pointless car horns. Let’s hope it offers more tranquility to be honest i don’t think it can get more ridiculous.
Read to the bottom for my top tip to save you from the madness!
Planning a Trip to Paracas? Here’s What You Need to Know:
✔ Ballestas Islands? Do it. Just be ready for bird related incidents.
✔ Paragliding? Worth the journey Ali said. Just aim for a smooth landing.
✔ Markets? Enter at Your Own Risk. If it looks like an eBay reject, it probably is.
✔ Beeping? There’s no escaping it. Embrace the madness.
✔ Beach Expectations? Keep ‘Em Low. It’s fine, but let’s just say no one’s calling it ‘pristine.’ And don’t swim in the water imo.
Been to Paracas? Tell us your best dodgy market purchase or your weirdest beeping encounter in the comments!
P.S…
My tip: head past the Marriott hotel to reach a well kept upper class coastal path that leads to the desert, quiet bays and peace await, plus security and police make sure no riff raff are about there.
