We swapped city buzz for rainforest hush and it was magic. First up was the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, then we crossed the road to meet the sun bears at the Bornean Sun Bear Conservation Centre. Two wildlife wins in one easy morning, and the girls loved every minute.
Orangutans at Sepilok
Timber boardwalks lead you through thick green to shaded viewing platforms. We took our time, listened to the forest and kept our voices low. When the orangutans appeared, everything felt unhurried and respectful. No pushing forward, just patient watching and a lot of soft wows from Georgia. Dotty was glued to the rail, pointing out every rustle she thought might be an orangutan.
Good to know: the orangutans here are free to come and go in the surrounding forest. Staff put out simple supplementary food at set times, but sightings are never guaranteed. That unpredictability is the point, because they are being prepared for life back in the wild. We were lucky and saw a mother with her baby, which absolutely made the day.
The “little bears with long tongues”
Across the road, the Bornean sun bears are exactly as the kids described them. Small, curious and armed with very long tongues for honey and insects. From the raised walkways you look down into forest enclosures while the bears climb, nap in tree baskets and mooch about. Each one has a different pale chest patch, so we turned it into a game. Heart, moon, letter. Georgia swears she saw a dolphin.
What matters most is the work both places do. The orangutans are rescued and rehabilitated with the aim of release. The sun bears are ex-pets and confiscated cubs on their own path to recovery. It feels hopeful, hands-on and quietly determined.
Family notes that helped
Go early or later in the day. Cooler for kids and animals are more active. Keep voices down. The best moments arrive when it is quiet. Binoculars if you have them. Great for spotting high in the canopy. Sun, water, snacks. Shady, but still Sabah. Hats and extra water helped. Two centres, one stop. They are opposite each other, so it is an easy double.
Getting there
We were based in Sepilok, so it was a short ride to the entrances. From Sandakan it is a simple trip out and back by taxi or e-hailing. There is a café and small shops around the centres, handy for a cold drink and a snack before you head on.
What we loved
Watching an orangutan take three thoughtful steps along a branch, then settle as if the forest was an armchair. A sun bear flicking out that ridiculous tongue to work a log, to squeals from Dotty. The simple walkways that let you feel part of the forest without getting in the way of it.
Quick planning tips
Tickets: Buy on arrival, check the board for current timings and any notices. Clothing: Light, breathable layers. Comfortable shoes for boardwalks. Photos: A zoom lens helps, but phones do surprisingly well in the soft light. Pace: Leave space between the two visits for a drink and a loo break.
Short version. Two brilliant, ethical wildlife experiences next door to each other. Totally doable with kids. Full of those quiet moments you travel for. We came away happy, a little hushed and very sure this was one of our favourite Borneo days so far.
FAQs for families
Are orangutan sightings guaranteed?
No. Orangutans roam freely in the surrounding forest and choose whether to visit the platforms. Some days you may see none, other days several. We were lucky and saw a mum and baby.
Is this suitable for young children?
Yes. The boardwalks are easy, shaded and well signed. Keep voices low, take water breaks and consider a lightweight carrier for little legs.
Can you visit both centres in one morning?
Yes. They are directly opposite each other. Allow time for a drink in between and follow the signs from one entrance to the other.
What should we bring?
Water, hats, sunscreen, insect repellent, tissues and a small pair of binoculars if you have them.
When is the best time to go?
Early morning or later in the afternoon is kinder on kids and often better for animal activity. Check the current schedule on arrival.
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